The tasting note: Great White Burgundy 2005
By Aymeric de Clouet
Domaine Henri Boillot
Meursault Charmes ****
Meursault Genévrières ***
Puligny-Montrachet Folatières *
Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère *
Puligny-Montrachet Perrières ****
Puligny-Montrachet Pucelles ****
Domaine Etienne Sauzet
Puligny-Montrachet Combettes ****
Domaine Louis Carillon
2005 is a very good but over-rated vintage for white Burgundy, just like 2009, because it comes out well in its youth, due to the lack of acidity. Apprentice tasters will be pleased, but in reality those vintages are likely to evolve quickly to oxidation. The purpose of this particular tasting was to check this assumption. In such vintages, it is interesting to select wines from terroirs with acidity, and wine makers who protect their wines from oxygen.
All wines were tasted before dinner, during dinner, and again after. So that none would be favoured by food or the absence of food. On a scale of five stars, I awarded 4 to Puligny Combettes (Sauzet), Meursault Charmes, Puligny Perrières and Pucelles (Henri Boillot), 3 to Genevrières and Bienvenues, and only one to Clos de la Mouchère and Folatières, the most disappointing wines. To be noted is that we had to replace two bottles completely oxidised.
The conclusion is simple: if you want great 2005, buy red wines. If you want very good white 2005, well, here is a small selection. I remember Gérard Boudot (Domaine Etienne Sauzet) ecstatic about his 2005s, much more than his neighbours, we should follow the enthusiastic wine grower, his wine was extremely good.